Discussing the final details for bespoke shoe assembly: https://gentl.mn/finishing-bespoke-shoe

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VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Scriptwriters: E.J. Daniels and Sven Raphael Schneider
→ Camera & Editing: Chris Dummer
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter

Bespoke Shoes Created by Amara Hark Weber
Visit Amara at https://harkweberstudio.com

IMAGE CREDIT:
→ Shoegazing.com

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00:00 Bespoke Finishing touches Introduction

Finishing is a distinctive step in shoemaking that emphasizes the personality of the maker and the unique quality of shoes. It’s about dying the sole edges, waxing the soles, hammering in the last little nails, and so forth.

01:05 Initial Smoothing and Glassing

Amara smooths and glasses the shoe. Leather is glassed before applying dyes because it opens up the leather fibers so they take the die better. It also helps to scrape away a thin layer, thus making it smoother all around.

01:45 Dyeing the Leather Edges

Basically, that’s the heel and the sole edges. Bespoke shoemaker Amara Hark Weber uses an alcohol-based pigment dye. There are also water-based ones and oil-based ones, and your shoemaker may choose whatever they prefer.

04:32 Nailing the Heels

Amara hammers in all her nails because, sometimes, the hammering of the nails can cause the wax layer to crack. So, by hammering the nails before you apply the wax, you don’t run that risk. The nails or tacks that are being used have both functional and aesthetic value.

06:57 Waxing

Not all waxes are alike and you want the right wax for the shoe to ensure the right color, shine, and reflection come through. Therefore, Amara typically chooses a wax that is similar to the original dye color, so the two harmonize well together.

11:45 Finishing the Soles

Amara first creates a template that separates the sole area from the waist area. The template helps her to give her the lines where she has to apply the dye. She also creates distinct dividing lines that are scored into the leather, so there’s a clear dividing line.