We discuss the process of attaching, cutting, refining, and channeling bespoke shoe insoles: https://gentl.mn/creating-insoles-bes...

#insole #bespokeshoes #notsponsored

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VIDEO CREDITS:
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→ Camera: Lukas Mooney & Chris Dummer
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→ 20th Century Fox

Bespoke Shoes Created by Amara Hark Weber
Visit Amara at http://harkweberstudio.com

IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Carmina
→ Paul Glenn & J & FJ Baker

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00:00 Insoles: Introduction

Series chronicle creation of a bespoke pair of shoes from start to finish with shoemaker Amara. We’ll talk about insoles – how it is attached to the last, how it is cut, how it is shaped and how the channels are added so the shoe comes together as a whole.

00:39 What Are Insoles?

Insoles are the heart of the shoe providing connecting point between uppers and outer soles and are essential for the comfort and structure of the overall shoe.

Now, that’s true for bespoke shoes, but the vast majority of men’s shoes and even men's dress shoes off the rack have low-quality insole. For my soles, Amara is using JR, or Johann Rendenbach leather.

03:20 A Word on Liners

04:16 Beginning the Insoles

05:17 Tacking & Tying the Insoles to the Last

07:15 Trimming the Excess Leather

Now that the lasts are “gift wrapped,” they have to rest, the insole has to dry, and at the end of the process, it will have the exact shape of the bottom and the last. Once Amara leaves the shoes to dry for several days, it’s time to trim the leather.

09:17 Shaping the Instep

Your shoemaker will likely reference the measurements just so they get everything right. Amara applies water to the leather so she can carefully shape the area of the instep. She uses glass instead of sandpaper because it is faster and more efficient and, therefore, the shoe will cost less.

11:43 Softening, Finishing & Inspecting the Edges

During this work, you may end up with sharp edges that could penetrate the lining later, which is why Amara softens them, so it won’t be an issue later on. The tool she uses here is called an “edger.”

13:03 Creating the Holdfast

It’s time to make the holdfast, which refers to the portion of the insole next to the channel. It has been carefully carved out and is perforated with holes.

17:29 Conclusion

Now that the insoles of the last are fully channeled, we can put the upper onto the last but that will come in our next video!